Greetings Sangha,
Having just returned from a wonderful trip to Asia with Tsultrim, I wanted to share some highlights from this journey. Our pilgrimage to Nepal and Tibet with Tsultrim last month took us to the sacred places of Machig Labdrön. Thirty-two of us traveled together with amazing harmony and it was a luminous trip in many regards. Tsultrim pointed out that it felt like a continuous initiation rather than a journey. But I wanted to focus on the high point of the trip which occurred at Zangri Khangmar, Tibet, the place where Machig Labdrön lived from ages 37 to 99, and where she passed away. I feel what happened there was so important that I want to share it with you in a special TaraNet.
Our group at the Gompa at Zangri Khangmar with Karma Dorje, Rinpoche (Photo by Jérôme Edou)
On the way to the Tsangpo River to do Chöd, Zangri Gompa above (Photo Anne and Barry Patterson)
Not surprisingly, Zangri Khangmar is where we felt the connection to Machig the most strongly. We arrived at Zangri Khangmar on June 2nd, just after the full moon of Saga Dawa, the most sacred month of the Tibetan year. Zangri Khangmar sits on a small hill above the Tsangpo River. The monastery is surrounded on all sides by stark, dry mountains, in great contrast to the green valley of barley fields directly below, and the aqua-colored Tsangpo River just beyond. As soon as we arrived, the place felt like home. It was truly sublime. The monastery was built around Machig's cave. There were many rooms where we camped out and a beautiful Gompa where we were all able to practice the Chöd together.
From the roof of Zangri Gompa to the Tsangpo River (photo by Wendy Garling)
The resident Lama was recognized by the 16th Karmapa Rolpai Dorje as the seventh incarnation of the brother of the eighth Karmapa, Mikyo Dorje. The 16th Karmapa named him Karma Nyitön Kunkhyab Chökyi Dorje. At the beginning of our stay, he offered Tsultrim the throne in the Gompa, and that afternoon she gave a teaching from "The Final Words of Machig Labdrön" from Jérôme Edou's book, Machig and the Foundations of Chöd. It was transformative for all of us as these original teachings had actually been spoken by Machig at this very place. Rinpoche attended the teachings and Jérôme (who we were fortunate to have as our guide on the trip) translated for him. The next day, the Rinpoche gave a teaching on the form of Chöd known as the “Bellowing Laughter of the Dakinis.” During this teaching, Rinpoche again had Tsultrim take the throne while he sat on a lower seat.
Jérôme Edou translating for Rinpoche (Photo by Petra Sloan)
Rainbow around the sun (Photo by Barry and Anne Patterson)
There were rainbows several times during that day and at one point a double rainbow around the sun appeared and, to our delight, stayed for several hours. Rinpoche had a dream the night before of a white dakini loudly sounding a Chöd drum. That afternoon we all went below to the river, which is quite wide, stretching a kilometer across. On the sandy banks, Rinpoche performed the Chöd dance at the water burial site. We all sat on the beach in a semi-circle to watch this ancient, sacred spectacle. During his dance dark clouds gathered as the wind picked up and the dramatic late afternoon light filtered through. Then we all did Chöd with him. As soon as we began, it started to sprinkle, slowly at first, and then it poured. We kept going. At the end, we were soaked to the skin and laughing with the wild wind.
Rinpoche performing the Chöd dance on the beach (Photo by Jérôme Edou)
The pilgrimage group practicing Chöd at the Tsangpo River at Zangri Khangmar in Tibet with Rinpoche in front of Tsultrim (Photo by Jérôme Edou)
Karma Dorje, Rinpoche and Tsultrim on the beach after the recognition announcement (photo Barry and Anne Patterson)
The rain had just stopped as we finished the Chöd and Rinpoche said, "This rain is very auspicious. At this time I want to make it clear to all of you and there should be no doubt that Tsultrim is an emanation of Machig Labdrön." To me, this felt so obvious. Of course Tsultrim is an emanation of Machig! It was a simple fact like saying that the river is turquoise-colored or that it had been raining. It was a statement that seemed so straightforward, yet with such profound consequences. After a few moments, we got up and Rinpoche began teaching us the Chöd dance, followed by wild dakini dancing on the beach.
The next day, Rinpoche offered Tsultrim a self-arisen golden crystal phurba (ceremonial dagger), the only remaining tsa tsa made from the ashes of Machig's body (a mixture of clay and ash imprinted with an image of Machig dancing), texts of Machig's teachings, a hat with symbolic meaning designed by Machig, and various other treasures. These gifts had great significance, because in all his lifetimes, the Rinpoche has been devoted to the teachings of Machig, and he is now the resident lama at Machig's seat.
Tsultrim in the Gompa at Zangri Khangmar after the recognition (Photo by Wendy Garling)
Tsultrim on the throne at Zangri Khangmar wearing the hat designed by Machig Labdrön (Photo by Wendy Garling)
When we left the monastery for the final time, Rinpoche created a processional walk, leading Tsultrim with incense and an incredibly heart-felt song which was like a lament. He led her onto the bus where he sat her down and sang another song. Many of us were crying as he was praying for her long life and rapid return. Then, Rinpoche offered Chang from the kapala (skullcup) to everyone on the bus. Locals also appeared wanting blessings from Tsultrim. Then suddenly we were on our way and looking back at the red monastery on the hill in the distance.
The final procession (Photo by Barry and Anne Patterson)
To those of us on this pilgrimage, it feels like we now have an ever deeper connection to the teachings of Machig and to the place where Machig spent the majority of her life. As we have discussed among ourselves, the awareness of these links and the experience of Tsultrim being recognized as an emanation of Machig has opened energetic doors that will contribute to and deepen Tsultrim's work in spreading the teachings and transmitting Machig’s lineage.
Zangri Khangmar from a distance (Photo by Ellen Serrano)
Besides this experience with the Lama at Zangri, during our stay in Nepal, Tsultrim was also independently recognized as an emanation of Machig Labdrön by Lama Tsering Wangdu, Rinpoche, holder of the lineage of Dampa Sangye. As soon as we got to Nepal, he began to call her "Machig Labdrönma." On our return from Tibet, after giving the empowerment of Machig to the group, he said to her privately, "This recognition is important so that the teachings of Machig can flourish and people will have no doubts about who you are." Wangdu Rinpoche told the Vajracharya (Dorje Loppön) of Shechen Monastery this as well and he related it to me later.
Lama Wangdu, Rinpoche in Kathmandu (Photo by Ellen Serrano)
About the recognition, Tsultrim recently said, "This explains why I have had a life-long connection with Machig's teachings beginning in 1973 learning Chöd and the dreams leading to finding her biography in 1981. As we drove away from Zangri Khangmar I thought, ‘Why this recognition, why now, what is the purpose?’ I think it is to make this new phase of collecting Machig's lineage more empowered. Recognition allows more energy to flow, and Machig's blessings can manifest more fully. It's a kind of mirroring from the outside, validating our heartfelt intention to reinvigorate and spread Machig's lineage in the West. It also felt very natural. We will keep doing what we have been doing already, but the recognition creates an auspicious interdependence for the teachings."
Statue of the mature Machig in the Zangri Gompa (Photo by Wendy Garling)
Before she passed away at Zangri Khangmar, Machig said:
For ninety-nine years, I have worked for the benefit of beings.
Now this work is complete.
I will not take birth again in this human realm in a physical form,
Nor will I leave behind any relics.
But my emanations in the world will be innumerable;
And many will recognize them.
They will be perceived in different ways,
Depending on karma, pure or impure.
Once a being reaches enlightenment they are no longer subject to the limitation of one body and may emanate into many different dimensions and forms. An emanation continues the work of the original incarnation. In celebration of the recognition and the pilgrimage – In the Footsteps of Machig Labdrön – for the next few weeks we will send photos of the trip and related quotes in “Words of Wisdom,” the weekly e-mail that Sustaining Sangha members receive.
May you all feel the radiance and blessings of this event! Emaho!
With love,
Beth Lee-Herbert
(Retreat Manager at Tara Mandala)
Tara Mandala
Website: www.taramandala.org
E-mail: admin@taramandala.org
Phone: 970-731-3711
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